This is my first post in my second blog about my visits to Africa – hence its title ‘Kate’safricana2’. If you didn’t read the first series don’t worry though; it is still available as a catch up.
I arrived in Kigali, Rwanda yesterday evening after a very long day travelling. 24 hours later it occurs to me that both ‘waiting’ and ‘hustle and bustle’ are features of African life to which one has to adjust very quickly. I am not a patient person and on arrival this was sorely tested whilst waiting for my luggage in the baggage collection hall. This is not an especially African form of waiting as I always find this difficult, especially when my luggage has been transferred en route as in this case. In the end my bright yellow suitcase appeared at the top of the conveyer belt which was descending onto the carousel intermittently, and I breathed a large sigh of relief. It had only been 40 minutes but it felt a lot longer. I was able to push my laden trolley out and literally into the arms of Sally and her very close Rwandan friend, Alphonsine
Today we began with breakfast in the cultural centre where we are staying – beautifully presented plates of delicious fruit and toast but we laughed that it seemed to take a very long time to appear – the restaurant here is the antithesis of a fast American diner where huge plates of food appear almost as soon as you have asked for them. The pace at which life is lived here just feels slower but the food was absolutely delicious when it arrived .
Our first job of the day was to go to the Burundian embassy in order to collect Sally’s visa for her visit there, in 2 weeks time, where she supports a charity called REMA which works with refugees. Sally had already been yesterday but was sent away after a long wait as the person who needed to sign the visa had now gone home. So back we came today. There were already a number of people patiently waiting on black leather seats and sofas in a large entrance hall with an immaculate tiled floor and a large portrait of Burundi’s president on the wall, watching us Once Sally had explained the reason for her visit we joined the group of people sitting and waited. Nothing happened, except a beautiful young women with immaculately braided hair and a striking blue dress came in too. There was no sense among anyone in the room of anything being likely to happen The two ladies sitting behind the desk seemed to have nothing to do so they chatted. If there had been a clock you could have said it ticked interminably, but there wasn’t one. Then, suddenly, Sally was called forward to receive the visa stamped into her passport. I did wonder about the elderly man and the younger one who had clearly been there ages when we got there but we were just very grateful to be freed and have had a successful outcome.
Already we had clocked up two experiences of the significance of ‘waiting’ – now we headed out into the hustle and bustle of central Kigali to change some money and buy some material for tablecloths at Itambira. The shopping streets are full of cars going at different speeds and trying to find parking spaces as well as hundreds of motor bike taxis driven by young men in orange/red tabards. These are the equivalent of tuc-tucs in Asia. Interestingly Sally tells me that bicycles are not allowed in central Kigali. Rwandan society is certainly highly controlled – they have made a very forward thinking law which prohibits plastic bags across the whole country but also have security checks at the front of all major buildings and checks on cars, including the boot and underneath, as they enter car parks. Apparently the government says it reassures people. Everywhere are people rushing to and fro, some with vertical loads to display, others carrying babies. Everywhere in shops and market stalls are displays of colourful wares to sell and hundreds of vendors persuading you to buy.
By now it is hot and quite humid but we have met up with Sal’s great friend Francois, who is en route back to Burundi and in the end we succeed with all our shopping tasks and return to the cultural centre where we pick delicious banana chips with garlic, which Sal establishes are the quickest item in the menu, along with an avocado salad.
Already being here is working it’s magic.
Kate’safricana2 