To Kisoro

On Thursday morning we left Itambira to go by boat to the very Northern end of the lake where we were to be collected by Naris and the driver, Ivan, who was going to take us to lots of different places over the next 4 days. It was a misty morning and the lake appeared almost milky as the outboard motor purred along.. Hilary boatmen entertained us with the cheerful tale of ‘upside down island’ . . .

As legend has it at one time all the people of this island were holding a celebration but when an old woman arrived they would not allow her to join in. One boy offered her a drink so she departed with him in her canoe. As she was, in truth, a witch she then flipped the island over so that all the people were drowned. No one has ever lived on this island since then as that would be inviting trouble.

After just over an hour in the boat we arrived at Muka where Naris was waiting for us with Ivan our driver for the next few days. He had a very smart vehicle.

First of all we headed back towards Kabale on the very smart tarmaced highway so that we could visit the high school where Robert, one of Sally’s close friends, is headmaster. We were introduced to lots of staff and pupils and did a sort of triumphal tour round the school. Lots of cows were wandering around with the pupils – they are a great asset providing fresh milk.

The school looked very well organised and Robert has increased its numbers four times over since he arrived 3 years ago. The staff were very enthusiastic especially the one in charge of the library which was really well stocked.

But they only have 8 computers for 500 pupils

These pupils were using them during break.

After this our journey continued , past the edge of the Bwindi impenetrable forest where we saw gorillas last time I was here and passing a baboon family on the road.

We did get a very good view of Lake Bunyonyi from the road but not in the best weather!

Eventually we reached the edge of the highlands and headed down a very steep slope towards Kisoro which is much more low lying and at the foot of the Virunga chain of volcanoes which continue into the Congo. We should have had a very good view of Muhabura the highest of the volcanoes but it was not to be. However amazingly in our return to Kabale three days later it was clear and I was able to get the perfect shot.

As we approached Kisoro it was clear that Irish potatoes are the dominant cash crop as there were lots of them growing in the fields, in sacks at the side of the road and on lorries.

Near Kisoro and in the town the landscape is littered with large piles of volcanic stones. People take them out of their fields and then pile them up to use for building.

These great piles of lava rocks indicate a violent history from these volcanoes though those at this end of the chain are now extinct. At the other end in the Congo Nyiragongo remains highly active with a boiling lava lake.

we had lunch with a friend of Sally’s called Joan who now lives alone o. The edge of Kisoro, having been widowed. Joan had a very handsome rooster with a harem of chickens.

After a very filling lunch with Joan and lots of good conversation it was time to leave.

We headed for the Traveller’s Rest hotel in Kisoro and suddenly were in a world of tourists which felt quite strange. We did however have a fantastic short thunderstorm and were treated to a comfy bed and a warm shower.